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ARROW GLACIER ROUTE

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Arrow Glacier Route. Western Breach by the Arrow Glacier.

Arrow Glacier Route. Western Breach by the Arrow Glacier is the toughest of the three popular routes to the summit. The steep screens with poor paths are interspersed with rocky steps which require hands to be used and care to be taken not to dislodge rocks on those below. On rare occasions, under icy conditions, it may be necessary to either cut steps or wear crampons. The crater rim is reached at about 5700m and the summit is still about 1 kilometer away in a straight line but 3 kilometers via Stella Point. First the crater must be traversed passing the remnants of the Furtwangler Glacier then the rim regained by Stella Point before the final section to the summit.
The route is a variation to the Lemosho, Machame or Umbwe routes. For safety reasons guides avoid descending the Western Breach and the Barafu then Mweka Route is used for descent. Porters carry clients equipment from the Arrow Glacier campsite or from the Lava Tower to the Mweka Hut or Barafu Hut to await the descending group.
Strong and acclimatised groups may make the ascent comfortably leaving the Lava Tower campsite (4600m) at around midnight. Others may consider establishing a higher camp (ca 4800m) by the ruins of the Arrow Glacier Hut. The Arrow Glacier has receded considerably and is no longer a feature on the ascent.
The Western Breach has seen several major rock falls, one destroyed the Arrow Glacier hut, another the Lava Tower hut, and a recent one in January 2006 killed several people. As result the route has been closed until further notice

 

Arrow Glacier Route. Western Breach by the Arrow map.  Glacier Map.

 

 

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